The soirée felt like an intimate garden party for friends–yet most of the crowd had only met that evening. Long communal tables, marked by elegant place settings and cushioned benches, made for a casual stage, as the group of 50 or so gathered under the boughs of a giant ceiba tree. Fairy lights gently illuminated an open-air kitchen, a mariachi band clad in white linen kept the vibes upbeat. Beds of herbs, including mint, cilantro, and oregano, lay in tidy wooden boxes–a beautiful but humble garden backdrop.
After cocktails, my party of four found our assigned seats, and soon found ourselves caught up in conversation with strangers. Indeed, experiencing new things is part of the charm of “La Ceiba,” a twice-weekly, communal dining experience at Rosewood Mayakoba, along Mexico’s Riviera Maya.
I first stayed at this gracious resort, which consists of 129-rooms and villas, spread out among a series of meandering waterways and lush mangroves, in 2012. The Rosewood had been open for five years, and the Riviera Maya area was just coming into its own as a tourism destination. I remember walking into the open-air lobby–still home to a dramatic spiral staircase, star-shaped lanterns, and sweeping views of the jungle—and thinking this was an easy place to hide away, especially in one of the lagoon-side suites.
Fast-forward more than a decade, and the resort competition here is now fierce, with big-name entrants such as Auberge Collection, St. Regis, and Edition Hotels, and a revamped Belmond property. And the traveler is ever more discerning, especially when it comes to food—which is why Rosewood has created specialty dining experiences such as La Ceiba.
We sampled some surprising wines, including an organic white and a vibrant chardonnay, both sourced from Baja California. Then, we settled in for executive chef Edgar Chavez’s brilliant take on farm-to-table cuisine: delicate squash salad, rainbow chard, caramelized sunflower seeds, pickled jicama, chayote, and relish, as well as a tender rib-eye, with black recado, peppered avocado leaf, and brussel sprout purée with almonds.
“Across Rosewood Mayakoba, every culinary experience builds on that spirit of invention, blending technique and narrative to reimagine Mexican cuisine for a global audience,” Edouard Grosmangin, the hotel’s managing director, told me.
This ethos also perfectly encapsulated Zapote Bar: a smart, sexy enclave tucked just off the lobby. With its concrete floors and dim mood lighting, thanks to Mexico City-based Estudio Atemporal designers, the space calls to mind a modern hacienda. Head bartender Salvador Guzman highlights the flavors of the Yucatan, earning the bar regular placement on the World’s 50 Best list. The Jaguar, for example, is a blend of Michter’s rye whiskey, banana syrup, chocolate bitters, pumpkin seeds, oat milk, and turmeric. There are also mezcal mules and Negronis on tap, as well as fermented cocktails such as the tropical kombucha (rum with mango, peach, and cinnamon kombucha). My husband, son, and I sat with our friends at another communal table, noshing on hummus, tzatziki, lamb chops, and chicken kebabs from the charcoal oven, while watching the bartenders carefully measure out their ingredients behind the main counter.
If it feels slightly weird to see kids dining at a bar recognized by the World’s 50 Best list, well, get used to it. Rosewood Mayakoba is supremely family-friendly, with bikes of all shapes and sizes available to borrow and a special kids breakfast buffet at the main dining room, Casa del Lago. Our “low season” fall visit coincided with a school break in the American South–and there were plenty of groups at the resort, adding to the festive atmosphere. Here is what it is like to stay at Rosewood Mayakoba.
The Rooms and Design
Designed by architect Jose Luis Morena, Rosewood Mayakoba sits on a prime slice of oceanfront real estate, drawing inspiration from Mexico’s Caribbean coast. Other area beaches may be wider–but the trade off is that you will be surrounded by Mayakoba’s waterways and mangroves. They give the property its unique feeling of seclusion.
The overall design leans spare, embracing earth tones with beautiful amber, lava stone floors and wooden four-poster beds, alongside linen-covered couches and ceramic accents. Upon arrival, we took one of the resort’s electric water taxis to our suite, passing by standalone rooms which had their own private areas for sunbathing. As our patient guide namechecked some of the local wildlife (crocodiles! herons!) and we snacked on fresh fruit, my son Bobby questioned whether or not he could swim in the canals. Once I learned about the crocodiles, the answer was a resounding no.
Your main decision? Staying along the lagoon or closer to the beach. With kids, you’ll probably benefit from the beach, where a main family pool area, Punta Bonita, provides a ton of space to play. (It was under renovation during the time of our visit, with plans to be finished by January 2026). The property consists of a series of spacious, very spread out suites–another factor to consider, as shuttle service is often needed at night, and the rooms by the water are also the farthest from Zapote Bar. The entry-level category lagoon studio suite starts at a generous 788 square-feet of indoor space, coupled with a 1,016-square-foot private patio with a heated plunge pool; for a bit more space, including a generous separate living room, book a stilted room that rests over the water. One of the more unusual accommodations are the eight “Wellness Suites,” two-story bungalows set on their own island near the Spa, with private treatment rooms and reflexology spaces.
On my first visit, I stayed in one of the rooftop ocean-view suites, complete with a lovely outdoor roof deck and a sunbed. This category–along with the beachfront studio suites–are ideal if you’re a sun worshipper. For multi-generational groups, the residences and two presidential suites—one beachfront, one lagoon-side—offer a maximum amount of space to spread out. (The beachfront presidential villa even comes with its own TV room, which the butler team can transform for a family movie night.) For a true splurge, the new 16,300-square-foot Founder’s Villa has a 92-foot-long infinity pool and a dedicated chef.
Food and Drink
To secure a seat at La Ceiba and Zapote Bar, I highly recommend booking reservations in advance. Some of the more casual options, including the beach club, Aqui me Quedo, impress, too. An adults-only, seaside dining spot partially covered by a thatched roof, it has swanky, low-level seating areas at the entrance, and a smattering of tables in the sand.
With the family pool shut down for the season, my party was able to dine here with kids–and had what was arguably the most perfect late-afternoon vacation lunch. We shared a feast of guacamole, tender octopus tostada, hearty fish birria tacos, and delicate shrimp ceviche.
Every morning, I would walk barefoot on the beach to Aqui me Quedo for a traditional café de olla, or coffee from the pot, spiked with cinnamon, orange zest, and a touch of piloncillo. If the early morning hours were about quiet, the afternoon was another scene entirely—particularly on the weekend. Guests were ordering margaritas and seafood-forward meals from the fabulous raw bar at La Cantina, a food truck parked between the sand and two chic pools. Chocolate clams “sambal” and peninsula-style oysters, octopus croquettes and a lobster naan roll–this was no ordinary food truck, and the quirky decor that surrounded the bar area also made for some great Instagram bait. My favorite touch: the “call-in sick, stay all week” rotary phone.
The hotel is one of many adding Japanese dishes to their offerings—Agave Azul has excellent sushi. Speakeasies at resorts are also trending, and Rosewood was an early adopter, creating “La Isla Secreta,” an adults-only bar set on the spa island and reachable via a boat.
Wellness
The Rosewood Mayakoba’s spa island has 12 treatment rooms, eight wellness suites, and a tranquil yoga deck overlooking the lagoon, among other amenities. Sense, A Rosewood Spa is a 17,000-square-foot pocket that feels far, far removed from any other part of the hotel. Massages promote sleep, balance, and grounding, and there are excellent hydrafacials and anti-aging facials. I enjoyed having tea in the spacious outdoor waiting area, and admired the small, adults-only pool, making a note to bring my book next time and sit for a spell. At the tranquil Sensorial Garden, guests can even pick from native plants including eucalyptus, agave, and chaya to craft their own special oil.
A highlight for me included a traditional temazcal experience led by a local shaman, Tochtli. At the Rosewood, the sweat lodge is tucked down a winding path and in the jungle. Tochtli began rhythmic prayers, honoring our relationship with the Earth and our ancestors, putting me in a meditative state. As the ceremony went on, and he poured water infused with herbs on hot local stone, I began to hear his voice echoing from different corners of the lodge. The darkness was enveloping, at times, and then a flash of light would suddenly appear to me in a corner, sparking my mind and sending me down a new path of thought.
Accessibility and Sustainability
According to a spokesperson for the resort, the majority of the public spaces are designed in accordance with Mexico’s accessibility guidelines established by the Consejo Nacional para el Desarrollo y la Inclusión de las Personas con Discapacidad (CONADIS), the national body responsible for standards comparable to the ADA in the United States. This includes the lobby, restaurants, spa, pool clubs, and more. Most of the accommodations at the resort are ADA compliant.
Several programs support a cleaner environment and foster a relationship with the local community. Chef Chavez works with Come Pesca, a non-profit which champions sustainable fishing. The resort has also eliminated all single-use plastic straws; installed large-scale amenity bottlings in guest rooms, to cut down on waste; and uses electric boats to ferry guests around the resort. Another special initiative? A partnership with Centro Educativo K’iin Beh, an elementary and middle school located just 15 minutes from the hotel. The school teaches around 250 children of the employees and the local community and provides a bilingual education; travelers can visit as well as make a donation for supplies. In 2023, the resort began offering internships to students of K’iin Beh.
Activities and Experiences
Historical attractions such as the Mayan ruins of Tulum, Ek Balam, and Coba make for wonderful day trips, but only if you have several days of vacation to burn. We were there for a long weekend, and chose to take advantage of the on-site water sports activities.
The Makayoba complex has a beachfront activities center, open to all of the resort guests, where you can sign up for private yacht charters, open-water dive courses, Jet Ski rides, and even something as simple as a “lucky duck” pull, where kids get towed on an inflatable raft for a quick but thrilling ride (a hit with Bobby). Other on-site offerings include tennis clinics, pickleball Sundays, kayak rides, and a championship 18-hole golf course, El Camaleón. During sunset happy hour, we took a private boat tour through the canals of the lagoon, a great way to get your bearings and appreciate the expansive grounds.
Getting There
Rosewood Mayakoba is part of Mayakoba, a 595-acre complex located 30-40 minutes by car from the Cancún International Airport. Transportation can be arranged through the hotel.
Source:
https://www.travelandleisure.com/rosewood-mayakoba-hotel-review-11871860
